diy wireless floodlights for a lit skateboard
For those who skate, they know.
For those who don\'t . . . . . . Such a person;
Skateboarding with your eyes closedYou never-
I don\'t know what will get you out of the woods.
Maybe there\'s a big hole in the ground, a turtle walking around, or a 2-
An inch high wall frame on the sidewalk (
Or suddenly no sidewalk).
You will definitely experience the pain of fear and skating at night.
I finally decided to do what I always wanted-the skateboard floodlight.
It\'s not enough to just see in front of you, and as a skater you need to see everything around you.
For example, you never know when a sharp turn may be needed, so it\'s better to see where you\'re going to turn.
My request :-
Light propagation of 360 degrees. -
Wireless and personal light activation.
So that I can open it while riding. -
Charge the lamp with a mobile phone charger.
I decided to do a skateboard truck riser to accommodate all the electronics and install the lights.
For this version, I went to a rather large 1 \"high.
I don\'t want to limit myself to these scams.
Although the idea seems simple, you need a lot of parts and tools!
The picture above shows the wireless relay set, lanterns and ABS plastic rods. A skateboard (
Trucks, bearings, wheels). Your choice!
Two pieces of ABS 1 \"x 3\" ABS board, black, 12 \"x 12\" piece, 1/16 PVC plastic light. Super long skateboard hard board control relay kit0.
68 Ohm power resistor boost converter 18650 protection battery 18650 battery holder micro Lipo with micro usb jack-
USB LiIon/LiPoly charger-v1Mini-
USB gong zhuan mu micro-
USB cable button on/off switch with LED ringLoctite 1999131 multi-function repair Putty75 ohm resistor (for switch LED)
Heat shrink tubes, as well as a variety of other small specification 18 specifications wire hot glue adhesive tape, zip stripe workbench with bitsHand file scissors, handleElectrical esolding iron with handle and straight c-clamp
Clip or quick action clip gunScribe8-
32 tpi tap and 1 tape handle 26 bit (
Tap pilot hole)
Hot gun or mini torch (
For heat shrink tube)
12mm drill bit drill \"drill bitPrick punchHammerTin the wire of the swissexpex GlovesDiagonal CuttersWire StrippersJumper endsSmall is separated from the crocodile clip flat tip screwdriverTake lantern and put it on one side, now. . . .
In the video above, how do we put the skateboard truck hole pattern on the ABS plastic stick and resize it.
Steps outlined below :-
Measure your bolt pattern.
The skateboard usually has one of the two bolt patterns of the truck. -
Remove the truck from the skateboard and dump one as shown in the PVC plastic block.
Engrave the position of the hole on the plastic. -
Remove the truck and use the sting-
Punch in to the center of the dent-
Drill the guide hole on the plastic block.
Now drill the hole to the right size with a 5mm bit.
Or find a skateboard hardware size.
Cutting out a pocket for electronics can happen in many different ways.
Here I show a fairly rough approach. -
Use a hand drill to drill as many holes around the profile you want to cut. -
Use a key hole saw, a steel saw or a reciprocating saw blade and cut off the straps between the holes. -
The last step. . .
Smooth jagged edges using manual files. This still-
Frame video shows the second truck cut on the mill.
The result is a cleaner cut.
And, on the record, it takes a lot less time.
Ask a qualified mechanic to give some impostor.
If you don\'t use it yourself.
This project is about the lights!
Remember the lanterns you opened?
It\'s time to use them.
In the video, we show how we can connect the LED board from the lantern.
Significant part of the video :-
The aluminum plate is cut and placed behind the LEDs as a radiator. -
Use the LED board itself as a template for placing holes on aluminum panels-
We used two methods to install the board and the LED board on the riser; 8-
32 TPI self threaded screws.
We drilled (
26 bit for pilot hole)
The month on the tap and riser-32tpi cap-head bolts.
Either way works.
Since you are threaded with plastic, the thread is easily stripped or worn out. So, self-
Threads or mounting screws may be the best idea. -
On the truck in front, we put two rows of lights with two lanterns.
Double lamp installation is shown in the picture above.
On one side of the riser, we need two points for on/off push --
Button and charger port.
Fortunately, they can all be placed in a hole of 1/2.
To drill these holes safely with a hand drill, start with a small bit and then gradually change to a larger bit.
Progress to 1/2 in Your Way \"or, put it in a pair of bench-top drill or mill.
Be careful, the big bit has a tendency to bind.
The photo shows that we put the two holes together near the location where the truck was installed.
Weld a pair of 18-spec wires to GND and BAT vias on LiPo PCB.
In addition, put a drop of solder on the two pads on the board (
Note the red arrow)
Change the charging rate from 100 mA to 500 mA.
Apply a piece of heat shrinkage on the LiPio PCB.
Do not cover the JST connector.
Remove the aluminum foot using a diagonal cutter and cut off the terminals on the power resistance.
Weld the wires of about 18 specifications to the power resistor and then cover the knot with a heat shrink tube.
Load one of the 18650 batteries completely into the battery stand.
Temporarily hook DC with jumper with crocodile clip at the end-
DC boost converter for 18650 battery stand.
Use a voltmeter and a small flat head screwdriver to adjust the output of the boost converter to about 12 of the output.
By reversing the tiny screws on the blue potentiometer, the voltage is 2 volts.
Weld about 18 meter wires to the input and output on the boost converter board.
Weld the male JST connector to the battery holder lead.
Apply the Heat Shrink tube to all solder joints.
Use the dab hot glue to stick the wire to the side of the bracket.
Weld the gauge line 18 to the switch contact on the button.
Weld the gauge line 20 to the LED contact on the button.
Weld the 75 ohm resistor in series with one of the LED leads.
It doesn\'t matter which one.
Apply the Heat Shrink tube to all solder joints and resistors.
Side lessons that determine the required resistance size of the switch LED.
First of all, we know that the LED rated voltage in the buttons we use for this project is 3 volts.
Now, get a potentiometer, ideally, less than 1000 ohms.
Connect the battery you intend to use to the LED and potentiometer as shown in the figure.
If you wish, use the power supply and adjust it to output the same voltage as the intended battery.
For example, about 4 output 18650.
2 volts when fully charged, so this is the voltage you set the power supply.
After you finish, power up the small circuit you made.
Now set the VOM to DC voltage and measure the voltage at both ends of the LED.
Turn the potentiometer until the voltage changes to 3 volts.
Power off the circuit now.
Set the VOM to measure the resistance.
And measure the resistance of the potentiometer.
Whatever you read on VOM, it is the value of the resistance required by the LED.
Don\'t worry if you can\'t get the exact value of a resistance potentiometer.
Just use some proximity.
For example, your VOM reads 79 ohms and you only have 75 ohms and then use it.
Install the button in the hole drilled into the truck riser.
Stick it to the hole you have drilled through and tighten the included nut to the inside of the truck riser with a pair of pliers.
Hot glue inserts the parent end of the micro USB extension cord into the second hole of the truck riser.
Take this step slowly.
It is almost certain that you have to apply glue in stages and pile up a large piece of glue where the cable enters the hole.
Be careful not to apply any glue to the USB jack itself.
As shown in the figure, heat glue the battery holder, power supply resistor, remote control relay board and DC boost converter board into the truck.
Make sure the main body of the truck riser is not sticking anything out.
When the riser is screwed in place, you don\'t want anything swamped on the deck.
The above simulation is an approximation of the concept of using a circuit.
The red on/off switch is push-
Button in the skateboard floodlight.
The black slider switch is a \"wireless\" signal.
The relay is in-
Board relay in the wireless receiver module within Riser.
The voltage in the Battery Park is close to 4 volts.
Like a real project, you have to turn on the red switch first to get it to work properly.
The 3 yellow LEDs parallel to the left are the lights on the truck. -----
Connect all individual components together using a black schematic.
Weld all wires to connect and then cover with a heat shrink tube.
Plug the JST connector in the battery pack into the LiPo charger PCB.
In addition, plug the micro USB extension cord into the LiPo PCB.
Please note that the LiPo PCB is not glued or fixed to anything within the truck Riser space.
It means floating.
Protip: Take a circle of ribbons under the battery as shown in the picture.
In this way, if you have to remove the battery, you don\'t have to venture to spy on it to damage it.
All you have to do is pull both ends of the ribbon.
Use Loctite putty to cover the wires between LED elements.
This is optional.
However, various pieces and obstacles fill your path when skating.
In the end, the wire will be damaged or the welding point will break.
Putty adds a layer of protection to sensitive points.
Fix the completed truck riser to the deck with extra long truck screws.
In doing so, make sure you don\'t clip any wires.
If the micro USB extension cord is causing you trouble, circle it and keep it in a more compliant shape with some heat shrink tube or tape or pull chain.
This is the simplest. . .
Battery placement (A27)
Enter the remote control.
Tie it on the belt. loop.
That\'s how you turn on the lights.
We can tie everything together and turn on two sets of lights with a wireless trunk. . .
However, I feel that maybe sometimes you just need one. Like the tail-
Lighting is a kind of daytime running lights in the street.
Choice is the key.
We use this project as a way to teach several concepts: 1. Balancing high-
Power led with power supply-resistors.
When LEDs are on, this usually indicates that they produce high current.
Typically, the resistor is used to limit the current to the LED.
But this does not mean that a large amount of resistance does not pass through when the resistance passes through. . .
The resistance becomes very hot.
This can cause a lot of problems.
Damage to other parts, fire, etc.
This is the case with skateboard floodlights. A 0.
68 ohm resistance is required.
The temperature of the standard resistance is above 100 degrees Celsius.
Hot enough to boil water.
We solve this problem with a force. resistor.
Designed for 50 W.
In other words, it can handle a lot of heat.
Plus a heat-
Like the shell around the resistor, it warms. . .
But it\'s not hot. 2.
Many problems have been solved using ready-made wireless relays.
First of all, we don\'t need to build our own wireless system.
Save time and headaches, I\'m sure. Also. . .
We have a situation where we need to open a system that is unreachable and may move without causing any harm to the user.
This gives us what we need. 3.
Found the appropriate resistance to match the unknown LED.
See Step 16 for all relevant information. 4.
Use a battery of 18650.
A battery type that is not very common.
In some cases, this battery has a huge energy density when it is over 4 V.
The battery is safe to use if handled correctly.
In this project, we used a circuit with a protection circuit.
This prevents any damage to the battery during use and charging. 5.
It is easy to install a charging circuit in the project.
This guide describes how to connect a battery to a 18650 battery used to power the system. 6.
Use a ready DC-
DC boost circuit.
The 4V of the battery is not enough for the wireless relay. . we needed 12V.
The boost circuit is 4 V, 12 V.
We could have built it ourselves. . .
But it can\'t be defeated for the price.
Other uses outside the skateboard: 1.
To be honest, the lights are useful anywhere.
At home, garage, camping, biking, etc. 2.
The circuit can be adapted to other types of LED arrays to achieve other quirky ideas.
Light Wall, art infusion, etc.
The skateboard floodlight works well.
When I was skiing with them, I did see objects on the ground and handled them like skaters.
The biggest savings in the shooting process is that there are several big potholes outside.
I saw them because of the truck floodlights . . . . . . Otherwise, or worse, I have to bail.
Initially, I would like everything to be packed in a riser that does not exceed 3/8 \".
In this way, I can take the board to the park and use it normally.
However, I do not want to limit early design due to space constraints.
Despite the large amount of space used here, we still have space issues!
The future version may be exactly what I want.
I can use a special apartment.
Pack the battery and dense pcb to handle the rest of the circuit.
Still, I think the skateboard floodlight is a perfect addition to cruisers and long boards.
I always see them at night . . . . . . Always afraid to imagine taking off from a person --
After hitting the rock
Oh . . . . . . Sometimes it\'s hard to see skaters at night . . . . . . This is a good security measure.